hawkwing_lb (![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
hawkwing_lb) wrote2010-01-20 09:18 pm
hawkwing_lb) wrote2010-01-20 09:18 pm
Entry tags:
don't let us get old, just make us be brave
Decent day. Not enough work, but such is the way of life.
Ran before climbing - mile in 9:30, 1.25 miles in 14 minutes, total.
Excellent climbing night. I led the 6A on the roof, an easy 5, and half of another 6A - it would have been the whole route, but I overclimbed the clip, ended up falling most of the way down because my belayer had forgotten to either brace himself against the wall or clip in to a weightbag, and decided it wasn't worth climbing all the way back up.
My style of leading, so far, appears to be climb-and-clip for the first four clips, and clip-and-stop for the last four. Well, apart from the roof 6A: you cannot stop on the roof, really, so it's climb-and-clip for the first four clips, stop, climb-and-clip for the next two, and then clip-and-stop for the last two.
(Of course, when I lead it, I always lead it first. The roof is no fun at all when your arms are tired and weak.)
One day I will lead a whole route without stopping to rest. One day! (Although that day is yet very far distant.)
Toproped, in addition, the same easy 5, a 6B (a pretty easy one: it may really be a 6A+), up the crux (three moves from the top) on an excruciating white 6C: improved my project black 6C and (with some cheating to get past the bleeding crux, after straightforward honesty failed three times in a row) dynoed and got my hand on the last hold. Although I couldn't hold it, but the dyno itself was fun. As always.
(I figured out tonight that I do in fact have to go in earnest for the full dyno there. There's no way I'm making two feet with my left hand on that move if I'm still trying to hang on with my right once I'm underway.)
Also climbed the 5 on the slab, and without stopping, on a bet, did the 3 first using only feet and left hand, and then using only feet and right hand. I did have to cheat a little bit on the latter, though. My right arm doesn't exactly hold me in the greatest esteem right now.
And after the better part of two and a half hours, both The Best Climbing Partner Ever and I were exhausted. And after what, eight, nine routes? I think we might be entitled to our exhaustion.
Ran before climbing - mile in 9:30, 1.25 miles in 14 minutes, total.
Excellent climbing night. I led the 6A on the roof, an easy 5, and half of another 6A - it would have been the whole route, but I overclimbed the clip, ended up falling most of the way down because my belayer had forgotten to either brace himself against the wall or clip in to a weightbag, and decided it wasn't worth climbing all the way back up.
My style of leading, so far, appears to be climb-and-clip for the first four clips, and clip-and-stop for the last four. Well, apart from the roof 6A: you cannot stop on the roof, really, so it's climb-and-clip for the first four clips, stop, climb-and-clip for the next two, and then clip-and-stop for the last two.
(Of course, when I lead it, I always lead it first. The roof is no fun at all when your arms are tired and weak.)
One day I will lead a whole route without stopping to rest. One day! (Although that day is yet very far distant.)
Toproped, in addition, the same easy 5, a 6B (a pretty easy one: it may really be a 6A+), up the crux (three moves from the top) on an excruciating white 6C: improved my project black 6C and (with some cheating to get past the bleeding crux, after straightforward honesty failed three times in a row) dynoed and got my hand on the last hold. Although I couldn't hold it, but the dyno itself was fun. As always.
(I figured out tonight that I do in fact have to go in earnest for the full dyno there. There's no way I'm making two feet with my left hand on that move if I'm still trying to hang on with my right once I'm underway.)
Also climbed the 5 on the slab, and without stopping, on a bet, did the 3 first using only feet and left hand, and then using only feet and right hand. I did have to cheat a little bit on the latter, though. My right arm doesn't exactly hold me in the greatest esteem right now.
And after the better part of two and a half hours, both The Best Climbing Partner Ever and I were exhausted. And after what, eight, nine routes? I think we might be entitled to our exhaustion.