Any old lie will do
Sep. 17th, 2008 08:27 pmAchievements:
Running: 1.1 miles in 10:20 minutes, 3.0 miles in 33.5 minutes, 3.7 miles in 45 minutes total.
Miles treadmilled since 10-09-08: 12.85.
Climbing:
O triumph! O success! This evening I sent the grey 5+ route that has defeated me for the last four weeks. It's two moves, on the crux of the slightly overhung bit (Andy, damn his eyes, keeps telling me that's not a real overhang, but while I see the justice of his position, I say different): you start with three points of contact - both hands and your right foot - but when you reach up for the hold on the vertical, you're left with two: right hand and right foot. And you have to basically lever yourself up with mostly just the right hand. Your arse, you see, is flush with the wall, and your right foot ends up out in front of you.
And once you get your left hand up onto the next hold - a rough bulbous hold that has enough fingering to resemble a jug, if not a friendly one and thank heaven for small mercies - you have to smear up for your left foothold, and smear up again when going on to the next handhold.
It really is as much strength as technique. Fortunately, the last third of the route is reasonably straightforward, because my arms were trembling by the time I finished.
That was the first route I tried tonight, and the last I sent. I gave the black 5+ a half-assed attempt, and tried my luck on the black 6b - I can see what I need to do to make the last third, the overhang, but I just don't have the muscle to do it yet - gave a red 6a a decent shot and made it halfway (the red 6a, alas, has a hold on a roof. I wanted to reach the roof, but couldn't even get that high), and had a rather flaily attempt at a bitty - very bitty - white 6a.
I was a bit of a slacker tonight, really. When the going got tough, I let myself chicken out. But having the easiest routes off-limits - there was a beginners' class down, learning how to tie in and belay - meant I had to try my hand at the sixes, and that at least was good. I've improved since last November, of a certainty. Now I just have to keep the climbing regular.
Running and climbing in the one evening, however, hurts. And it makes me so hungry.
Latin: 30 minutes, sentences.
Reading: finished the Dignas and Winter book, started David Mattingly, An Imperial Possession: Britain in the Roman Empire.
Running: 1.1 miles in 10:20 minutes, 3.0 miles in 33.5 minutes, 3.7 miles in 45 minutes total.
Miles treadmilled since 10-09-08: 12.85.
Climbing:
O triumph! O success! This evening I sent the grey 5+ route that has defeated me for the last four weeks. It's two moves, on the crux of the slightly overhung bit (Andy, damn his eyes, keeps telling me that's not a real overhang, but while I see the justice of his position, I say different): you start with three points of contact - both hands and your right foot - but when you reach up for the hold on the vertical, you're left with two: right hand and right foot. And you have to basically lever yourself up with mostly just the right hand. Your arse, you see, is flush with the wall, and your right foot ends up out in front of you.
And once you get your left hand up onto the next hold - a rough bulbous hold that has enough fingering to resemble a jug, if not a friendly one and thank heaven for small mercies - you have to smear up for your left foothold, and smear up again when going on to the next handhold.
It really is as much strength as technique. Fortunately, the last third of the route is reasonably straightforward, because my arms were trembling by the time I finished.
That was the first route I tried tonight, and the last I sent. I gave the black 5+ a half-assed attempt, and tried my luck on the black 6b - I can see what I need to do to make the last third, the overhang, but I just don't have the muscle to do it yet - gave a red 6a a decent shot and made it halfway (the red 6a, alas, has a hold on a roof. I wanted to reach the roof, but couldn't even get that high), and had a rather flaily attempt at a bitty - very bitty - white 6a.
I was a bit of a slacker tonight, really. When the going got tough, I let myself chicken out. But having the easiest routes off-limits - there was a beginners' class down, learning how to tie in and belay - meant I had to try my hand at the sixes, and that at least was good. I've improved since last November, of a certainty. Now I just have to keep the climbing regular.
Running and climbing in the one evening, however, hurts. And it makes me so hungry.
Latin: 30 minutes, sentences.
Reading: finished the Dignas and Winter book, started David Mattingly, An Imperial Possession: Britain in the Roman Empire.