never say die
Jan. 13th, 2009 10:05 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
hawkwing_lbApparently the trick to having an okay climbing night is to eat a decent lunch and have some chocolate immediately beforehand.
I went up the easiest route - the green 4 - twice with no rest; I got to the last move of the white 5+/6a, and got within two moves of the top, although with much flailing, dogging, and resting, on a red 6a (possibly it is an easy 6b). Sent the orange 5 nice and clean, and attempted the nasty grey 6a+/6b: fail. Finished up on the grey 5+/6a, and because my arms were like rubber, could only get my hand to touch the last move, not close around it.
This is a species of improvement. The last move of the white 6a is annoying: it's an overhang, and there's one jug for your left hand, a foothold for your left foot - and then on the right side, the last hold is a round-ish sloper, and the foothold to get you up to the end of the wall... well, it looks like the best way to do it is to heel-hook. And I am Not Confident about that. It feels and is (so far, for me) very insecure. And then I barndoor. Falling is fun, but it's very frustrating to be in sniffing distance of the end, and then Whee! Falling!
Also, doing bent arm hangs and straight arm hangs for a warm-up seems to work pretty well. Longer bent arm hang tonight than last week, too. :)
Onward to conquer, and all that.
I went up the easiest route - the green 4 - twice with no rest; I got to the last move of the white 5+/6a, and got within two moves of the top, although with much flailing, dogging, and resting, on a red 6a (possibly it is an easy 6b). Sent the orange 5 nice and clean, and attempted the nasty grey 6a+/6b: fail. Finished up on the grey 5+/6a, and because my arms were like rubber, could only get my hand to touch the last move, not close around it.
This is a species of improvement. The last move of the white 6a is annoying: it's an overhang, and there's one jug for your left hand, a foothold for your left foot - and then on the right side, the last hold is a round-ish sloper, and the foothold to get you up to the end of the wall... well, it looks like the best way to do it is to heel-hook. And I am Not Confident about that. It feels and is (so far, for me) very insecure. And then I barndoor. Falling is fun, but it's very frustrating to be in sniffing distance of the end, and then Whee! Falling!
Also, doing bent arm hangs and straight arm hangs for a warm-up seems to work pretty well. Longer bent arm hang tonight than last week, too. :)
Onward to conquer, and all that.
